FUSO is a wine project from Porto Vino, an Italian importer that sources from farmers it knows personally and bottles what they grow. The collaborators here are the Russo family — matriarch Daniela and her three sons — who have worked nine hectares in Maretto since 1897. A Barbera dominant blend with additions of Freisa and Grignolino that vary vintage to vintage, this wine is both lean and lithe. The acidity and bright red berry notes from the Barbera are perfectly balanced with the subtle floral notes and grippy tannins that the Freisa and Grignolino provide- a thoughtfully and intentionally crafted wine that embodies the spirit of everyday Italian wine making: semplice ma non banalé, simple but not boring.