Over the past decade, Edmond and Anne Vatan’s Sancerre “Clos la Néore” has gone, from virtually unknown outside the Loire, to becoming a top prize among sommeliers, merchants and connoisseurs worldwide. What they realize is that, from this small plot within Les Monts Damnés — Sancerre’s greatest vineyard — the Vatans fashion transcendently complex, very long-lived Sancerre that is among the world’s most riveting white wines. In fact, in how extraordinarily it develops with age, Vatan’s Clos la Néore has more in common with a Raveneau or Dauvissat Chablis than with most Sancerres. The 2022 Sancerre Clos La Néore (magnum) is another rich, dense wine. Dried orchard fruit, chamomile, marzipan, sage and white flowers build effortlessly in the glass. Like so many vintages, the 2022 really benefits from aeration. As that happens, the wine shows more freshness, cut and verve to play off the natural richness of the vintage.