Cardedu's Vermentino transports you to a pristine beach on the island of Sardegna, with the turquoise shimmer of the Tyrrhenian Sea in front of you. Sergio Loi is a 4th generation traditional Sardinian producer, whose family winery from the early 1900s has always practiced no chemical farming and minimum intervention in the cellar. "Nuo" is their Vermentino, and it does exactly what a great island white should: citrus and green herbs up front, a bitter-almond snap in the middle, and a saline, savory finish instead of sweetness or oak.