Wines: 2018 Domaine du Cret de Bine “Bio-Addict”
Regularly $22.99, Special Price $19.54
Cheese: Woodcock Farm Summer Snow
Regularly $35.99/lb, Special Price $28.79
François and Marie-Therèse Subrin, along with their daughter Florence and nephew Geoffroy, farm 5 hectares of land in the village of Sarcey, a village situated on a high plateau tucked between the Monts Beaujolais and the Monts Lyonnais in the southwest corner of the Beaujolais appellation. Normally the Beaujolais that gets all the attention comes from one of the ten villages or “crus” in the north of the region where the wines are named for the village they’re sourced from. Mostly what comes from the south are wines that, while sometimes quite good, are often thought of as more mass production style of wines. The Subrin family and their wines are here to disabuse you of this notion.
When Marie-Therèse Subrin walked into the shop almost a year ago, I was more than pleasantly surprised by the wines she was showing. Together, we tasted through three of her cuvees and while all of them were uniformly excellent, I originally brought in just her “Cuvee du Martin” which has since become a very popular wine in the shop with many of clients calling it their new house wine. But there was another wine that I thought was pretty darned stunning as well that I didn’t bring in until now and that wine is her cuvee called “Bio-Addict”. Wild and alive with notes of fresh strawberry, fresh tobacco, leather, and just a suggestion of smokiness, to say this wine is aromatic is just being polite. On the palate this is juicy and and fresh and positively full of delight. This wine would be outstanding with just a bit of a chill on it and it would be perfect with anything from a picnic to a fine meal but would absolutely sing when served alongside a fresh cheese.
The details: The Subrin’s vineyard is planted on granite soils with significant deposits of quartz and feldspar. In 2008 they decided to embrace organic and biodynamic practices and are now both Ecocert and Demeter certified. Vinified in traditional Beaujolais method with indigenous yeats by “pied de cuve”. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with only minimal use of SO2 at bottling.
Since we kicked off Summer this past weekend, I thought it’d be appropriate to choose a real summer cheese for this week’s pairing. Summer snow is a buttery sheep’s milk cheese made in the Camembert style, only during the late spring and summer months. The name alludes to the cheese’s fluffy white rind, reminiscent of the snow-capped peaks that surround the town of Weston, VT come wintertime.
Creamy, lemony, and a touch nutty when young, with a more pronounced sheepy flavor as it ages. This sheep’s milk cheese will be insane amounts of deliciousness with this week’s Beaujolais. The light fruit of the wine will bring out the delicate sweet flavors of this cheese, making it a pair you should not miss!