Pale gold in color, with a steady stream of fine bubbles; aromatically you'll find ultra-freshness and a distinctive sappy cool infusing the shy orchard fruits, like a sniff of an early spring morning before the mist has lifted. It's taut, tight and stony on the palate, in bracing aperitif style -- but the quality of the fruit, teased to ripeness over the long-houred English summer, is there for all to taste.